Guide
Revision Date: 09/01/2024
Much colder temperatures are around the corner, so be prepared to move sensitive container plants and have frost cloth onhand. Fall wildflowers are still blooming and cool-temperature vegetables can be planted. Hardscaping or water harvesting
projects can be implemented. Spring-blooming bulbs and wildflowers can be planted now for a blast of color later.
Maintenance
- The first frost sometimes occurs in mid-to-late November. Prepare by obtaining frost cloth, sheets, utility lights or re-use
incandescent C-7 or C-9 Christmas lights (not miniatures or LED). Be sure to protect any light bulbs from accidental
damage and do not allow contact with cloth coverings. Protect plants as needed; some portions of your yard may be
colder than others. - Do general garden cleanup. Pull weeds before they go to seed.
- Remove dead or dying plants and rake up fallen leaves to compost them if not diseased.
- Replenish organic mulches to a depth of 3-4 inches for soil temperature and moisture control as well as weed prevention.
Refresh any decorative stone landscape materials. - If prickly pear cacti have a cottony substance on them known as cochineal scale, a strong spray of water from a garden
hose will remove most of it. Heavily infested pads should be cut off at the joint and discarded; do not compost. - Remove spent blooms of flowers such as petunias to increase flower production.
- Move adenium (desert roses) and other cold-sensitive succulents such as pachypodium and certain euphorbia to a
protected area or move them indoors for the winter. Provide them with a sunny spot until outdoor nighttime temperatures
return to the mid-50’s. - Protect young vegetable and flower transplants and seedlings from cutworms by placing a ring cut from a paper or
Styrofoam cup around the transplant at the soil line to protect the stem. The rings can be removed after a week or 10 days. - Plan and implement hardscaping & water harvesting projects while the temperatures are cooler and rain is minimal.
Planting
- Early in the month, sow seeds directly into the ground for beets, carrots, peas, onions, chard, spinach, kale, endive, and
turnips. Space them appropriately to allow for plant and root growth. - Transplant broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower starts into the ground or raised beds.
- Early in the month sow seeds directly into the ground for spring-flowering wildflowers such as California and Mexican
poppies, cowpen daisy, desert blue bells, desert marigold, tidy tips, and white chicory; keep the area moist but not damp
until seeds germinate. Be sure the chosen location will not be too shaded when Spring comes; they love sun. - Plant flowering perennials such as gaura and angelita daisy.
- Plant spring-flowering bulbs such as bearded iris, hyacinth, crocus, daffodils, and narcissus for a burst of color after
Winter. - This is a good month to plant trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, herbs, and winter vegetables purchased from nurseries
before the first frost.
Fertilizing
- Vegetables require light fertilization throughout the growing season. There are various fertilizer options, including organic
and chemical fertilizers. When using organic fertilizers, it's important to apply them early to allow sufficient time for
breakdown, ensuring a steady nutrient supply as plants grow. - Do not fertilize citrus, roses, or frost-tender plants, as this may encourage tender new growth susceptible to damage.
- Fertilize winter lawns monthly to retain good color.
Watering
- Adjust your irrigation frequencies (not length of time) for November.
- Continue to water your fall wildflowers.
- If you brought potted succulents indoors to protect them, water these very sparingly during this time.
- If you see fungus or mushrooms, cut back on watering in that area.
- Irrigate in preparation for cold nights except for cacti/succulents. Moist soil will store heat from the sun’s energy and
release it at night, keeping these plants warmer. - Importantly, if a freeze is predicted, do not water cacti or other succulents
Extension Publications
For more information on any of these topics, search our database of Extension publications going back more than 100 years housed in the University of Arizona Campus Repository.