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Flock age
Too young
Most pullets (young female chickens) begin laying eggs between 18–22 weeks of age, depending on the breed. Although they may start to look “full grown” around 14–16 weeks, their reproductive systems aren’t fully mature until a bit later. This period of development is crucial, as their bodies are preparing to produce eggs consistently and with good shell quality. While it may be tempting to expect eggs as soon as they look like adult hens, patience is key; waiting for their reproductive tract to fully mature ensures healthier laying patterns and increase lifetime egg production once they do start.
Too old
As hens age, their egg production naturally declines. Most hens are at their peak laying period during their first 1–2 years, producing eggs regularly and in good quantities. However, after this peak, their egg-laying rate gradually slows down each year, often becoming sporadic by age three or four. Older hens may lay fewer eggs overall, and the eggs themselves may be larger, but less frequent, with occasional changes in shell quality. While they may continue to lay a few eggs well into their later years, this is often not consistent or productive enough to meet the needs of an egg-producing flock. If you intend to keep your older hens beyond their productive lifespan instead of culling them, leave yourself space to grow your flock and add more young birds in future years to maintain consistent egg production.
Health and behavior
Broody
Some hens have a tendency to go “broody,” a behavior triggered by hormones signaling them to hatch a batch of eggs. When a hen goes broody, she will stop laying eggs and spend nearly all her time sitting in a nest box, leaving only once or twice daily to eat and drink. She may defend her nesting spot by puffing up, squawking, pecking, and refusing to leave. Certain breeds and individual hens are more prone to broodiness and may be more protective of their nests. This behavior typically occurs in spring, though it can also happen in summer or fall. If left unchecked, it may last 3–6 weeks. During this time, the hen may lose a significant amount of body weight and be at risk for heat stroke in the summer.
If you don’t intend for her to hatch chicks, it’s best to “break” her broodiness to get her back to laying as soon as possible. One effective method is placing her in “broody jail”—a dog crate or small animal cage with a wire bottom, where she is safe and has access to food and water but cannot nest. Typically, 3–7 days in this setup is enough, depending on how determined she is to stay broody. You’ll know she’s ready to rejoin the flock when, upon release, she resumes her usual behaviors instead of heading back to the nest box.
Sick
When hens fall ill, regardless of the specific virus or disease, they often experience a decline in egg production as their bodies prioritize healing over egg-laying. Viral infections, such as infectious bronchitis, avian influenza, fowl pox, and Newcastle disease, can all lead to symptoms like reduced appetite, lethargy, and respiratory issues, which contribute to lower egg output and/or misshapen eggs. In many cases, a hen’s system redirects nutrients and energy toward fighting off the infection, naturally reducing or even halting egg production temporarily. Recovery can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks, depending on the severity of the illness and the care provided. During this period, supportive care—including a stress-free environment, nutritious feed, and clean water—can aid recovery and help restore normal laying patterns once the hens regain health.
Egg eater
Egg eating can be a frustrating reason for a drop in egg production. Some hens may develop a habit of breaking and eating their own eggs or those of other hens. This 2 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension behavior often begins accidentally if an egg breaks in the nest and a hen tastes it. Once they acquire the taste, it can be hard to stop. To prevent egg eating, ensure hens have a balanced diet with adequate protein and calcium to discourage them from seeking extra nutrients in eggs. Collect eggs frequently to reduce temptation and provide plenty of nest boxes with soft bedding to minimize breakage. Remove broody hens from the nestboxes promptly and ensure there is at least 1 nest box per 4 hens to prevent fighting over nesting space. If egg eating becomes a persistent issue, consider using roll-away nest boxes, which are designed to let eggs roll to a separate, covered compartment immediately after being laid, keeping them safe from pecking hens. To deter an egg eater, try placing golf balls or mustard-filled eggs in the nest boxes, though these methods have mixed results. Persistent offenders may require culling, as egg eating is a learned behavior that can be difficult to reverse.
Hens have found an alternative laying arrangement
When hens are allowed to free-range, they may sometimes find alternative, hidden spots to lay their eggs, leading to a sudden drop in eggs collected from the coop. Hens can be particular about nesting locations, and if they find a secluded, comfortable spot outside, they may choose it over their designated nest boxes. To prevent this, ensure that nest boxes in the coop are clean, comfortable, and easily accessible. Adding fake eggs in the boxes can also encourage hens to lay where you want them to. If eggs are still missing, observe the hens' behavior during laying hours or conduct a search of their free-range area. Limiting free-range time until mid-morning, when most hens have already laid, can also help guide them back to laying in the coop.
Season
Too hot
When the weather is consistently hot, hens will naturally reduce their food intake which can lead to a decrease in egg production. Since egg-laying requires substantial energy and nutrients, the drop in feed consumption means hens don’t receive the resources needed to maintain their usual output. Prolonged high temperatures can also stress hens, further impacting their health and productivity. Providing shaded areas, fresh water, and cooling measures, like fans or misters, can help them stay comfortable and minimize the decline in egg production during hot weather.
Molting
Molting is the process of replacing feathers with new ones, and most adult hens will molt once a year usually at the onset of fall (August through October). This process is triggered by decreasing daylight length and the "end" of an egg production cycle. Timing and duration varies among birds, so expect this process to continue for several months as each individual in your flock completes their molting process. Pullets that hatched over the spring or summer will not molt in their first autumn.
Some birds will lose a lot of their feathers in patches giving them a very disheveled appearance. Others will grow new feathers at a fairly equal rate across their bodies resulting in new feathers gradually appearing among the old. During molting seasons, expect to see a drastic increase in discarded feathers around the coop and roosting areas.
Birds who are molting will reduce or stop laying, as their energy goes to regrowing those new feathers. Ensure birds have free access to a palatable, balanced diet, and consider increasing protein levels during this time to help them through this process. You can switch them to a higher protein layer feed or provide a high protein supplement such as mealworm or a commercial product top dress.
Once birds have completed the molting process, they should resume laying. If they have completed their first molt as an adult layer, egg production and quality should improve in their second production cycle.
Daylight length
As daylight shortens in winter, backyard hens naturally slow down their egg production. In Arizona, daylight varies from 9–10 hours in winter to 14–15 hours in summer, depending on latitude, which can lead to seasonal declines in egg output. However, by supplementing light—especially in the early morning—flock owners can maintain steady egg production throughout the year. A consistent 14–16 hours of daylight supports optimal laying. Importantly, research indicates this does not shorten a hen’s laying lifespan or reduce overall egg production, provided they receive balanced nutrition, including calcium.
References
Bulletin #2227, Maine Poultry Facts: Lighting For Small- Scale Flocks - Cooperative Extension Publications - University of Maine Cooperative Extension. (n.d.). Cooperative Extension Publications. https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2227e/
Clauer, P. J. (2009). Management Requirements for Laying Flocks. Virginia Cooperative Extension. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10919/48442
Clauer, P. J. (2009). Prevention of Egg Eating. Virginia Cooperative Extension. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10919/48453
Clauer, P. J. & Leonie, J. (2018). Raising Fowl and Small Animals in Urban Areas. Virginia Cooperative Extension. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10919/85316
Jacob, J. P., Wilson, H. R., Miles, R. D., Butcher, G. D., & Mather, F. B. (2000). Factors affecting egg production in backyard chicken flocks. University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PS029
Jacob, J. P. (n.d.). Raising chickens for egg production. eXtension. Retrieved from https://poultry.extension.org/articles/poultry-management/raising-chickensfor-egg-production/
Navarrette, A. (2021, February 19). Hen molting: What to egg-spect. Texas A&M University, School of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences. Retrieved from https://vetmed.tamu.edu/news/pet-talk/hen-molting/